ALUMINIUM TANKS.
For the price these tanks seem like quite good value. I would have to suspect they have Chinese origins, but they do look great. They are obviously designed for automotive applications, but could be good even for water tanks. With the fuel outlets at the bottom I wouldn't be too keen on them in the bilge with petrol in one. Maybe on a weather deck where any spills or leaks can escape.
You may note they even have a small sediment trap near the outlets. This can be handy as a drain to keep an eye on condensate formation in the tank.
Sizes range from about 20 to 80 litres. Direct from fleaBay of course.
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SOFT SEAL.
The answer to a maidens prayer,,,,,,, almost.
This stuff is great for protecting metals, iron or aluminum alloys, particularly if not already coated with salt and rust. It is not an anti-corrosive or oxide converter, but more of a barrier layer. It forms a greasy layer similar to that found on machine tools when you first buy them wrapped in grease proof paper.
Mechanics often hate it as they get their little fingers dirty, don't use it in high traffic areas, it is almost spray on grease. It's great on outboard power heads, especially units that spend their entire life afloat. It is easily removed with kerosene or some of the older type degreasers.
It is not a substitute for lubricating oils.
If an item is already encrusted with salt residue this product will be of limited use as you will encapsulating the base item and the corrosive material side by side. Clean and dry the item to be protected first.
Other places I use it regularly to great effect-
- Electrical connectors and joints.
- Battery contacts inside your torches
- Light bulb sockets and bulb bases, particularly navigation lights.
- Before replacing bolts in machinery, especially into aluminium.
- Bronze and brass skin fittings (through hulls), valves etc.
Similar product - Valvoline Tectyl 506. Also available in aerosol cans.
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DURALAC.
Duralac is an anti-corrosive paste designed to minimise electrolytic action between metals, similar and dissimilar. Known by some as 'gorrilla snot'. It is viscous and of limited solubility so that it can be applied liberally to surfaces to be jointed without the worry of it eroding and leaving the surface exposed in the future. Nothing is perfect, but this stuff is very good. I suspect it's origins may have been it the aircraft industry.
Buy it the smallest of quantity available unless you are building a ship, it little bit goes a looong way.
Clean up as you go with a suitable solvent or else it's a chisel later.
The main component is barium chromate so I would expect there to be plenty of health warnings associated with it.
Do your own reading.
- Fixing stainless steel hounds to your mast (Al.), coat both surfaces with this first.
- Holding the hounds on with rivets or bolts? Coat the contacting surfaces with Duralac first.
- Changing the impellor on your outboard engine? Lightly coat flanges and the hidden parts of the bolt.
- Fitting a plastic masthead light to an aluminium (US, aluminum, written by an Orrstrailyun) mast, same as above.
- Wiring a shackle onto your anchor. Try this on the thread before assembly.
Stainless steel doesn't mean rust or corrosion free just as marine grade aluminium alloy doesn't guarantee corrosive free effects from seawater. To extend the life of your equipment, lots of simple things can make a huge difference, this is one.
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If you are wondering............
- I am not a agent or reseller of any of these products.
- These recommendation are based on the proven track records of these items over the years.
- Some of the new items listed look like possible money saving options. Your choice!
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